How to enhance
and make up the lips
Make-up maestro Stefano Anselmo reveals all in his latest book
After a career as a make-up artist alongside top designers at the ready-to-wear and high fashion shows and his ground-breaking advertising campaigns and work with a range of celebrities, including legendary singer Mina, Stefano Anselmo is widely regarded as a make-up maestro, with an Academy named after him and over 15 books to his name. His latest, entitled ‘Tutto sulle labbra – Gli strumenti e le tecniche per abbellire le labbra e il loro contorno’ (All about lips – Tools and techniques for beautifying the lips and their contours) and published by Edizioni LSWR, reveals the secrets to getting the best out of our lips, beginning with colour!
Step one: outline the contour of the lips with a medium-hard pencil to create a clean, precise line. This is essential to reshape the lips, producing perfect proportions and eliminating any asymmetry. For best results, Anselmo’s tip is to go for a slightly darker tint than your lipstick.
Step two: colour. When it comes to colour, the key is harmony: with the clothes you are wearing, skin tone and even your nail colour. Bright colours such as fiery reds are perfect for black and evening dresses, while neutral tones such as almost all browns, grey and black, allow more freedom of choice. The chosen colour also has to be in harmony with the teeth, but don’t worry, here are three top tips to bear in mind: a bright lipstick accentuates the whiteness of the teeth; paler or orange tints should be avoided if the teeth are slightly yellow; a “nude” effect works better than bright colours if the teeth are not very aesthetically pleasing.
Step three: Consider the intensity of the skin tone, as Anselmo explains, ‘the intensity of a lip colour depends on the intensity of the dominant surrounding colour’.
Step four: Hydration. Lipstick works much better if the lips are well-hydrated and not cracked, so it’s important to use a colourless emollient and moisturising lip balm. For more damaged and cracked lips, a light compress can be applied before starting make-up, leaving it on for about ten minutes, to remove any raised skin.
Then all you need to do is grab your pencils and brushes, pick out your colour and paint your lips perfect for everyday make-up or a special occasion!