MFW: J.Salinas makes its debut

On the occasion of Milan Fashion Week, we met Jorge Luis Salinas, the Peruvian designer behind the eponymous J.Salinas label, during the fitting of his collection on the eve of the show. Taking place on the opening day, his presentation officially kicks off the prestigious Milan event.

Continuing the cultural references that have featured throughout his collections, this proposal draws inspiration from one of the icons of Andean culture: the Retablo. Originating in the colonial period as a portable wooden altar used by Spanish priests for evangelisation, it is now an emblematic symbol of Andean identity, history and worldview. Local artisans have transformed it into a visual archive of community life and collective memory, capable of recounting the sacred relationship with the land (Mama Pacha), the mountains, Andean animals, patron saint festivals, traditional dances and family traditions.

J.Salinas’ creations are distinguished by meticulous craftsmanship: precious natural fibres, artisanal embroidery and ancestral techniques that enhance the female silhouette through a modern and distinctive play of volumes. Given that these are one-of-a-kind pieces, do you consider this collection to be haute couture?

Yes, it is an haute couture collection. We are recreating and transforming millennia-old Peruvian concepts into something modern; that is what I seek to achieve with my collections. It becomes haute couture through its craftsmanship, its textures and the fineness of the fabrics that Peru possesses. This is what I want to achieve: to have Peru recognised as a country capable of offering haute couture alongside other countries in the region.

This is J.Salinas’ fourth participation in Milan Fashion Week. Since its first presentation with the Autumn/Winter 2025.26 collection, the brand has grown rapidly, joining the official MFW calendar and presenting its show on the opening day, a slot traditionally reserved for internationally renowned brands, such as Prada in recent editions. What do you believe has been the key to this growth?

Consistency, differentiation and the evolution of fabrics towards something truly innovative. This distinctive element has been recognised by the Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana, which gives us feedback each season that we have duly taken on board in order to refine our offering. This is how we managed to present our show on the first day of Fashion Week, a challenging slot for anyone, and even more so for a non-Italian brand.

J.Salinas’ collections have received praise from industry experts. What would you say is their distinguishing feature: the use of natural fibres, millennia-old craftsmanship, social inclusion, or a distinctive and exclusive design approach?

It is a combination of elements rooted in handmade craftsmanship, starting with a single thread. Yes, the creation and construction begin with a thread and, naturally, this is complemented by high-quality styling that makes the garment more elegant, modern and refined. What we want is to offer haute couture, and reaching that level is a difficult goal for a South American country.

Peru is already internationally recognised for its extraordinary gastronomic offering, thanks to figures such as Gastón Acurio, who have succeeded in innovating, showcasing local produce and expressing the country’s multicultural heritage. Are we witnessing a new chapter in the international recognition of Peruvian fashion?

I hope so. Fashion is a much more difficult field, but we are fighting to carve out a space and demonstrate that high-quality garments are created in Peru, made by hand and with great talent. This is the concept we are trying to convey to those who see our collections. And, of course, we hope that this achievement will open up opportunities for other Peruvian and Latin American designers. As I said, we have a distinctive DNA: handmade craftsmanship, the use of crochet and the organic fibres from our land are values that can secure us a place in an important market such as Italy, and beyond. For instance, we are opening up opportunities in the US, the UK, Germany and other markets in the region where talent, creativity and craftsmanship are appreciated as cornerstones of haute couture. We hope to establish further connections with European clients, as well as with high-profile global media outlets that are coming to discover our project and help spread the word.