Green Deal Leather:
updates from Brussels
Towards Zero Adverse Impact of the European Leather Industry
On 16 May Brussels, the European Tanning and Leather partners, COTANCE and industriAll Europe held the Green Deal Leather Final Conference, concluding a two-year, EU-funded project ‘Towards Zero Adverse Impact of the European Leather Industry – Green Deal Leather’. The event attracted around 100 on-site attendees and marked the end of a successful, EU-funded social dialogue project between the European social partners as well as national representatives from Spain (ACEXPIEL), Portugal (APIC), France (FFTM), Hungary (MKZS), Italy (UNIC), Germany (VDL), and Austria (FVTBSL).
One of many prestigious speakers at the conference was Judith Kirton-Darling, Secretary General of industriAll Europe, who stated: “We have a proud tradition of producing good quality leather here in Europe and we want to make the leather sector, like all manufacturing sectors, as green as possible. At the same time, good occupational health and safety practices in the workplace, with ongoing training and checks, are essential for achieving a more sustainable leather industry. Social dialogue is key, and with the project’s preliminary results serving as a baseline, we must now work together to achieve zero accidents.” Manuel Rios, President of COTANCE, added: “Through the Green Deal Leather project, COTANCE continues to equip European tanners with the tools and intelligence needed to progress towards a more sustainable future. We believe that transparency is key to advancing our social and environmental credentials and dispelling common misconceptions about leather. We are proud to undertake this journey hand in hand with our social partners.”
The studies conducted over the two-year period revealed that tannery-related accidents in EU countries surveyed (Italy, Spain, France, Germany, Portugal, Hungary and Austria) declined by 16%, from 1,317 in 2019 to 1,102 in 2021. The incidence rate in 2021 was just 3.2%, of which 15% was on the way to/from work, and over 90% of recorded accidents qualified as of “minor” severity, but there is still room for improvement. Furthermore, calculating leather’s carbon footprint is a complex exercise that requires a thorough understanding of the tanning industry, its processes and products. The result obtained with the ECO2L method indicates an average of 8kg of CO2 per m2 of bovine leather in tannery processes. This figure can vary based on specific characteristics of the leather, such as thickness and performance requirements.
Therefore, since each batch of leather is made to order, customers have the opportunity to influence the eco-design of their leather products. Leather’s environmental impact stems more from livestock breeding and chemicals than from tanning. The study also shows why replacing one chemical with another that has a lower carbon footprint does not always result in overall improvement. By working together in social dialogue, the European leather industry produces tools and intelligence which contribute to worker safety, protect the environment, and promote sustainable, high-quality leather, supporting millions of jobs worldwide.
